Destinations

Cali Colombia – Salsa Capital of the World

Published November 25, 2024 in Colombia , South America - 0 Comments
Cali Colombia

Dancing in the Streets

Join Jane as she dances her way through the Capital City of Valle del Cauca, Cali, in Colombia

by Jane Finn as published in Issue 29 of Planet Golf Review Magazine

Cali is hot, hot, hot in more ways than one, but before this trip, Columbia’s third largest city wasn’t even on my radar. A bit like Cinderella, she lives in the shadows of her sisters, Bogotá, Medellín, and Cartagena. Colombians who don’t hail from here consider her a bit gritty, not as charming as her siblings. But beneath the surface I discover a bold beauty and a wildly beating heart that strikes a chord within me. A place where I can easily find my rhythm.

Slowly I adjust to the heat and humidity. In comparison, Bogotá was much cooler and no matter the time of day, the roads were congested. Here traffic flows like the seven rivers that run through the city. And unlike Medellín, most of the heritage architecture has been preserved, often interspersed with modern apartment and office towers, creating an eclectic urban landscape.

Cali Colombia Ceiba tree and street art

Ceiba Trees and Street Art in Cali Colombia

I’m surrounded by greenery, and particularly impressed by the wide boulevards that are protect ancient and revered Ceiba trees whose massive canopies shelter more than 562 species of birds. The fact that variety on this scale exist in a city of three million people is a bit shocking but not when you realize that Colombia is the world’s second most biodiverse country in the world, and Cali is the most biodiverse city in the country.

Conservation plays a key role here, and significantly influences my experiences during my stay. Even my hotel has found a way to preserve the past while providing guests with all the amenities they expect. The Hotel Níspero is a three-story, white-washed colonial building that sits on the edge of a narrow street in the San Antonio Barrio. Stepping through the 80-year-old doors, I immediately find myself in the lobby and feel how all the earth’s elements come together to create an indoor tropical oasis within this historic site.

Left: Typical neighbourhood cafe Right: Iglesia La Ermita

The reception desk is massive, created with three giant slabs of stone and as I wait to register, I’m offered a refreshing lemonade with mint and a chance to relax in the tranquil lobby. Sunlight pours through an opening in the ceiling. The tall trees in the courtyard reach for the sky and the vines that trail from interior balconies are reflected in the shimmering pool adjacent to the dining terrace. In that moment, I take a step back to a time when life was simpler.

That’s a good thing as there is no elevator, but the friendly staff eagerly grab my bags and whisk them away to the third floor. As I climb a series of quirky stairways, I’m serenaded by an orchestra of tiny coqui frogs who live in the trees. The room is well appointed, and the kingside bed looks extremely comfortable, and I soon find myself lulled to sleep by their cheerful refrain.

Get Ready to Dance

Cali Colombia Park

Enjoying a shoeshine in the park

Speaking of music in the air, I encounter sweet notes everywhere I roam. Not surprisingly, considering Cali is the self-proclaimed Salsa Capital of the World. More than thirty-three percent of the city’s residents are Afro-Caribbean and their influence on the city’s culture is profound. Salsa is a part of their heritage, but it has evolved here, with a twist.

While the steps are simple, Caleños move at twice the pace of their Cuban relatives, giving the local version a decidedly unique flair. Dance schools, studios, and academies abound offering up everything from one-hour sessions to multi-week immersive courses for students who travel from afar, intent on setting their spirits free and expressing themselves through art.

Cali Colombia Park

Park in the colourful village of Finlandia

I decide to take a lesson but admit that it was both exhilarating and exhausting. However, it piqued my curiosity and I’m now on a quest now that I understand music and dance underscore every aspect of this vibrant city. Pelecanus introduces me to Alejandro, an enthusiastic Caleño who passionately shares his knowledge and zest for life with me. Over the next few days, he will guide me to more than a few hidden gems, that I would have never found on my own.

The best way to explore is on foot, but before we begin a little sustenance is in order. Cali is renowned for its pandebono, a specialty bread that was recognized this year as the #1 bread, in the world, by Taste Atlas. Plain, stuffed with cheese or guava paste, I enjoy every morsel but bemoan the fact that the ‘Café Tinto’ that accompanies them is less than stellar. But Alejandro has a fix for that!

Tierradentro Cafe

We veer off into a tiny side street to the Tierradentro Café where our barista extraordinaire prepares a V60 filtered coffee at our table. Rich and aromatic, this cup satisfies my cravings and now I’m ready to uncover the events that marked the evolution of salsa that brought notice to this corner of the world.

In Jairo Varela Square, I connect to the music under a giant trumpet and learn about Varela’s iconic Niche band. Over the next few hours, I get to play some traditional instruments, listen to vinyl records, tour the Museo Raizales De la Salsa, and view the Singers of Singers – an amazing piece of street art before we end up at ‘Sin’ Street where hundreds of locals gather on Friday and Saturday nights for an open-air party where foreigners are always welcome.

Pargue El Gato de Tejada - Cali Colombia

EL Gato by Hernando Tajada

With a pep in my step, we find some shade along the Rio Cali and take our time strolling through the Parque El Gato de Tejada Columbia, Cali’s famous Cat Walk, admiring the three-ton, giant bronze cat donated by Hernando Tejada and fifteen other feline statues created by local artists.

However, the highlight of my afternoon is our last stop at the ASOMUCAF, a cooperative that supports more than fifty women and their families. Under Maria’s watchful eye, I craft a handmade souvenir, and I’m rewarded with a small book for my efforts. What is even more rewarding is the joy I see in her eyes when I make a small purchase of a wallet, made by one of the members from their boutique.

That evening I’m fortunate enough to dine at one of the city’s premier restaurants, the Hacienda del Bosque. The 19th century colonial building and grounds have been painstakingly restored to their former glory and once again, I feel like I’m part of another era. It’s a large venue with a festive ambience. Under a canopy of sparkling lights, I feast on ceviche and garlic shrimps that are cooked to perfection. I’m tempted to linger to enjoy an Aguardiente, unquestionably Colombia’s national drink but decide it’s best to retire to prepare for tomorrow’s adventure.

Nourished by Nature

At 5:45 AM the streets of San Antonio are quiet. I’m headed to Dapa about an hour’s drive from Cali to experience some of the best birdwatching on the planet. I’m barely awake but I snap to attention when we hit the unpaved road that leads to La Minga Ecolodge. We’re in the cloud forest, a truly magical and mystical realm but as a novice, I fear I may not spot any feathered friends, but I soon cast my doubts aside.

Hummingbirds at La Minga Ecolodge

A pair of brilliant hummingbirds

As soon as I step out of the car, I hear a gentle buzz, and my eyes focus on the feeders that encircle the house. More than seventeen types of hummingbirds inhabit the area, and they have all shown up today, just for me! My guide, Santiago, is a certified ornithologist who knows everything there is to know about birds including where they like to perch and the exact moment, they’re about to take flight. There’s not a question that I ask that he can’t answer, but there is also knowing in the silence.

Patience is a virtue and my guide’s well runs deep. He teaches me how to sit back and find that point of stillness where I can observe and really listen. As we wander the trails, I’m thrilled to spot flower piercers, multi-coloured tanagers, emerald and crimson toucanets and even a Quetzal. Santiago tries to help me recognize individual calls but I’m too enthralled watching rainbows of colours flit from branch to branch that I simply can’t take it all in. I never expected to find birdwatching so thrilling, but I’m in heaven and may need to take up a new hobby!

The next day, one of the hotel guests tells me about a husband-and-wife team who have spent the past twenty-five years turning a deforested hillside into a butterfly sanctuary. I’m intrigued by their story and contact Alejandro to ask if he can take me there and before I know it, we’re off to Mariposario Andoke.

Morpho Butterfly

As soon as we arrive, we are greeted by a naturalist and head to a specially constructed, education centre to watch through glass panes, the transformation from caterpillar to chrysalis to butterfly. As one butterfly after another emerges from their shell, I have nothing but admiration for their beauty, strength, and resilience.

As soon as they have ‘found their wings,’ the juveniles are relocated to a massive enclosure where more than forty species feast at the guava and banana stands, in preparation for their release into the wild.

I learn that their wings act like solar panels, using the sun’s energy to power their flight. In some cases, the sun even brings out their colour. For example, the morpho’s stunning blue wings turn black at night when the sun goes down.

When I monarch lands on my hand, I marvel that it will take four generations to make the flight that I will soon take home, and I’m reminded of a sign I once saw – difficult Roads often lead to Beautiful destinations!

One of the Greatest Shows on Earth

Delirio Dancer in Cali Colombia

Delirio Dancer

But Cali struts her colours and sparkles – day or night.

Once a month, Colombia’s version of Cirque du Soliel, Delirio returns to Cali to perform its tribute to her residents’ love of salsa. I love cabarets, concerts, and theatrical productions, but I’m skeptical of ‘must-see’ or ‘must-do’ attractions. However, when I realize there are more locals than tourists in attendance, I let go of my preconceived ideas and open my mind and heart to the experience.

Our table is beside the catwalk leading to the main stage, the perfect vantage point to not only see but feel the action. The curtain is about to go up when I’m surprised and delighted to see Alejandro slide into the last remaining seat. He explains that he never misses an opportunity to attend a performance, and soon I discover why.

During the second act, one of the dancers taps Alejandro on the shoulder and beckons him to join her for a number. He leapt from his chair and within seconds they found their rhythm. I’m mesmerized as they execute step after step with exuberance and precision. I’m breathless just watching them but he returns, beaming and reenergized. I’m left wondering if Alejandro wasn’t a dance expert masquerading as a tour guide!

The many attractions of Cali Colombia

Top Left: The Famous LA-33 Salsa Band / Bottom Left: Cali from Cristo Rey Hill / Right: Lulada Stand

As the evening draws to a close, I gaze around the crowded theatre, and its clear why Cali has captured my imagination. Not a single person is seated. Everyone is standing, swaying to the beat of the Cali Pachanguero, the city’s anthem. Voices are raised in song and even though I don’t know the words, I can feel the emotion and long to add my voice to the chorus, to be part of something bigger than me.

Colombians love their country and Caleňos love their city, even more. Their zest for living is evident by how they celebrate their heritage, traditions and diversity of people and place that have woven together to create a city, poised to grow, and prosper, her way.

As I reflect on what I have done in the past few days, Cali’s story is not so much a fairytale as a lesson in how people and communities working together, can learn from the past to build a brighter future.

In Cali, there are 22 Communas and Salsa is a combination of twenty-two rhythms. Something to ponder.

To read the entire issue 29 of Planet Golf Review click here.

 

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