Pining in North Vancouver Island Canada

Pine for Cedars on North Vancouver Island

As published in the April 2025 Issue 30 of Planet Golf Review Magazine

Within minutes of leaving the Victoria airport, I find myself on Malahat Drive. Tall standing cedars line the road. Wise, old sentinels that part now and then to offer glimpses of Saanich Inlet and the surrounding mountains. Cedar has been considered a sacred tree associated with protection and purification for centuries. Stepping out of the car to breathe in their heady perfume, I feel the healing power of nature and know I’m blessed to be back on Vancouver Island.

Saanich Inlet viewed from the Malahat Skywalk

Now it’s time to head north to explore new territory; the Comox Valley.

Northward Bound

As I reach Nanaimo, I’m on ‘island time’ and pull off the TransCanada Highway in favour of the scenic Ocean Route. I have no idea what I would discover along the way, so I ignore the clock and find myself stopping more frequently than I had planned.

Strolling the shores of Qualicum Beach

In Qualicum Beach, a charming seaside community, there is an expansive stretch of public beach that beckons residents and visitors alike to stroll the shore, have a picnic or simply relax and take in the view. Even though it’s mid-September, I can’t resist peeling off my shoes and socks to dip my toes in the ocean. Nor can I resist stopping for some tide-to-table fare – plump, juicy Fanny Bay oysters plucked from the sea this morning, before rendezvousing with my husband Dave in Courtenay.

Room With A View

Pulling into The Crown Isle Resort and Golf Community, I have the distinct impression that this place is stately, not stuffy. That feeling that’s confirmed when I enter the  two-story building that sits at the heart of the 871-acre community. The interplay of stone, sunlight and polished beams is stunning, but it’s the warm reception I receive at the front desk that invites me to take advantage of all the amenities this community has to offer.

We’re staying in a newly built one-bedroom cottage at the edge of the 1^st hole on the golf course. It exudes a modern day ‘rustic charm’ with all the comforts you need to stay cozy for several days, including a gas fireplace that takes away the chill of the autumn evening.

After a busy travel day, dinner at the resort’s Timber Room Bar & Grill sounds appetizing, and I know we’ve made an excellent choice as we’re shown to an intimate table tucked in the corner with a 180-degree view that includes the Comox glacier located approximately 19 miles away. The K’ómoks First Nations refer to it as Kwénis, which means whale, and aptly describes its size and shape.

The colours of the lake reflect deposits from the melting glacier

Dave and I have different interests, so we discuss how to divide and conquer on this trip over a bottle of Quail’s Gate Chardonnay and the restaurant’s signature Southwest Taco salad and cedar-planked salmon and prawns. By the time the sun sets, we have a strategy to let him play some of the Vancouver Island Golf Trail courses while I get my nature fix and still have plenty of time together.

Of Secrets and Stories

Bright and early, we make our way to the Comox Marina, where hundreds of boats rest in the sheltered bay. Today, the water shimmers like dancing diamonds, but come summer, it will turn vibrant shades of green and blue by the herrings that come here to spawn. We stroll the quaint downtown area before popping into the Tidal Café, where our server shares a secret that adds another dimension to this pretty little town.

Boats moored at the Comox Marina

A lesser-known fact outside the area is that Comox is home to the Comox Air Force Base, where Canada’s premier aviators, the Snowbirds, practice their aerial maneuvers from April to mid-May. While you need credentials to watch from the base, locals know that Point Holmes offers an excellent vantage point. As we walk the beach, I can only imagine how inspiring it would be to observe these skilled pilots performing their intricate routines against the backdrop of the ocean.

Next, we head to the Spirits of the West Coast Art Gallery to meet Walter, who has, along with his wife, spent over 20 years forging strong relationships with British Columbia’s Indigenous community. He knows the history of every piece on display. Still, what’s more impressive is he knows the stories of every artist who trusts him to represent their interests and respect the rich traditions and artistic expressions of the Haida, Kwakwaka’wakw, Coast Salish, and West Coast peoples.

Despite its modest exterior, the gallery is a treasure trove of cultural insights. We spend two enriching hours with Walter, whose stories and explanations add depth and colour to our understanding of Indigenous art and traditions. It is a poignant reminder that truth and reconciliation have a long journey ahead, but strides are being made, particularly in North Vancouver Island, where collaboration with First Nations is helping to protect the environment and stimulate the economy.

Take a Walk on the Wild Side

Campbell River is known as the Salmon Capital of the World. It’s also the gateway to some of the most incredible wildlife adventures on the planet. While I appreciate the delicate sweetness of freshly caught salmon, I’d rather eat them than catch them, so I opt to spend two days on the water with Campbell River Whale Watching and Adventure Tours, exploring Discovery Passage, Johnstone Straight and the Salish Sea.

Heading through the fjords to Bute Inlet

On my first day out with Captain Mark, we see diminutive dolphins dancing on the water, Steller sea lions sunning on the rocks, and a pair of Humpbacks sleeping on the surface. Everyone on board is ecstatic when we come across not one but two Orca pods. I thought it couldn’t get any better than this, but I was wrong.

Whale watching in an open Zodiac

At 8 AM the following day, I find myself amongst intrepid travellers from England, Scotland, Australia, Germany and North America, listening to Captains Alex and Zoey brief us on safe, respectful viewing practices and who we may encounter on our day-long voyage. Boarding the Tenacious 3, we’re as excited as kids on the last day of school. Expectations are high, and everyone is anxiously willing that when we reach the traditional territory of the Homalco First Nation, we will be graced by the presence of a grizzly bear or two.

It’s two hours to Bute Island, so we have time to tarry and observe any wildlife we encounter. Just past the Cape Mudge Lighthouse on Quadra Island, where Chinook and Coho salmon congregate on the shelf, we see the first of many Humpbacks we will spot today, enjoying a leisurely breakfast. We watch them bubble fishing, and when they are satiated, one dives deep while the other breaches just off the bow as if to wave us on our way.

We travel around small islands where some adventurous souls maintain a self-sustaining lifestyle while others camp or kayak for a week or two of solace and simplicity. As we near our destination, the pristine peaks get taller, and the mountains surrounding us are reflected in turquoise glacial water. I’m so relaxed and engrossed in the fjord landscape that it almost doesn’t register that we’ve docked. Hurriedly, I gather my belongings and scramble up the stairs to board a small bus that will take me on the next leg of this remarkable adventure.

As we bump along an old logging road, it becomes clear that our Indigenous guides are far more ‘tour operators.’ They are passionate storytellers who want us to experience their connection to land, the flora, the fauna, the animals and one another.

Travelling inland, we pass signs in their native language that speak about the trees and their importance in maintaining the ecosystem. Other signs denote who inhabits the area – like bald eagles, but there is no stopping until we come upon a beautifully hand-carved sign that reads XAWAS, advising us Grizzly Bears live here.

Quickly and in complete silence, we hop out and scurry up the viewing tower, hopeful that a bear is nearby. Everyone does their best to contain their excitement, but it begins to wane as time passes, and there’s no sign of movement except for the grasses blowing in the wind.

The Orford River is teeming with salmon. Ripe pickings for a hungry bear, so I’m disappointed when our guide suggests it’s time to move. Suddenly, he asks us to stand perfectly still and be quiet. As we turn our heads in unison, a  massive Grizzly meanders down the river in search of prey less than 200 yards away. He snatches a huge salmon from the stream with one massive swipe and promptly tosses it back.

Bewildered, I turn to our guide, who responds before I formulate my question. Bear medicine is about discernment. It’s late in the season and our visitor has packed on plenty of pounds, so he can be choosy regarding his entrée. The first salmon he poached was a male. He wanted eggs, and seconds later, he has what he craved in hand.

A feast awaits as spawning salmon swim up the river under his watchful eye

Legend has it that this river is guarded by a mythical creature named IOS. Should you encounter him while bathing, you’re advised to turn your back and throw a stone over your shoulder, and if you connect, you’ll be granted a wish. I wasn’t fortunate enough to meet IOS, but when a bear popped his head up from the stream and our eyes connected, that was all the magic I needed to feel complete.

On our way back to port, we had several more wildlife sightings and a challenge or two. One of those challenges was besting the world’s second-strongest sea rapids. Early explorers deemed the whirlpools at Seymour Narrows treacherous, but Captain Alex has traversed the passage more than once. Everyone braces as we wade into turbulent waters. I trust his ability to navigate the angry waters, and we emerge unscathed.

When I return to the Naturally Pacific, I realize I’m covered in salt, drenched and dishevelled because I chose to spend my return trip atop the boat’s viewing deck. Exhausted and exhilarated at the same time, my first inclination is to climb into bed and pull the covers over my head. Then, I remember that the hotel spa has an exceptional mineral pool that’s calling my name.

After a long, luxurious soak, I emerge feeling revitalized and reenergized and head to The Carve Kitchen + Meatery. I’m early, so I belly up to the bar and order a signature cocktail prepared by Naturally Pacific’s in-house mixologist while I wait for Dave to join me.

By now, I’m as ravenous as the bears I saw earlier, and I devour the delicious steak that appears before me in record time. Considering how ‘physical’ I have been the past two days, I convince myself that I deserve dessert and ask for a chocolate brownie topped with salted caramel, cherries and vanilla ice cream. The perfect ending to a perfect day!

On my last day, storm clouds gather on the horizon. Still, my exploration is undeterred by the weather as I spend the morning taking in the outstanding display of Indigenous art at the Campbell River Museum before perusing the other exhibits that bring the history of this unique corner of the world to life.

Then I do what I often do just before it’s time to leave – I go shopping – two bags of aromatic Island Blend tea from Stonehouse Teas, candles and creams from Standing Spruce Farm and Apothecary. This Indigenous-owned and operated business sources local, ethically harvested ingredients to create all their products. Last but not least, I pick up a couple of freshly caught salmon filets to keep the adventure going when I get home.

Departing from the Comox Regional Airport is simple but not easy as I’m reluctant to leave this little piece of heaven on earth. Why? Because when I’m on the Island, I don’t feel like a tourist or an outsider. I feel like a welcomed guest and part of a larger community.

As I settle for my five-hour flight, I have time to reflect on what made this trip extraordinary. Yes, the scenery is stunning, the wildlife is abundant, and the food fabulous, but it’s the Islanders’ approach to life, how they care for the planet, support one another and extend genuine hospitality to all that calls me back, time and time again.

To read the April 2025 Issue 30 of Planet Golf Review Magazine click here